Monday, June 11, 2012

Stone Marks Mystic's Prehistory


This boulder in Mystic, Conn. was dropped by ice sheets that covered the state during the last glacial period.
Photograph by Brandon T. Bisceglia.

We just happened to be heading in the direction of the erratic.

My wife, Valeria, and I were driving to Mystic, Conn. for the weekend to celebrate our third anniversary. I had suggested the destination because I knew that Mystic was one of the few spots in the state that understood how to create a successful tourism industry while retaining its New England charm.

As we traced the coastline eastward in the waning June afternoon, we listened to Friday's episode of WhereWe Live, a radio talk show about Connecticut based out of WNPR in Hartford. Host John Dankosky was talking with experts about the area's geology.

He brought photographer Frtiz Hoffmann on. Hoffmann had traveled the country taking pictures of big rocks for a story that appeared in the March issue of National Geographic.

These weren't just any big rocks, though – they had been plopped down by the last group of glaciers to cover much of the United States during the most recent Ice Age, which ended around 13,000 years ago.

Hoffmann's pictures were of erratics – huge boulders that looked like they had dropped into their environment from the sky. The most famous of these are probably the rocks in Central Park.

When the ice sheets slid southward to cover the continent, they scooped up tremendous masses of earth. As the ice receded, it left that material behind.

“You have a beautiful picture of one (erratic) at the edge of a parking lot in Mystic, Connecticut,” we heard Dankosky say.

From that point, I was determined to track the boulder down.

That evening, we arrived at the Steamboat Inn on Water Street. The inn hugs the dock that lines the Mystic River and leads to the town's drawbridge. As we checked in, I asked about the rock in the parking lot.

“Oh, I think I read something about that,” the woman said. “I don't know where the rock is, but I remember the picture showed the rock next to a Salvation Army bin.”

Once we were settled in our room, I cracked open the laptop and searched for the National Geographic article. Sure enough, the rock was on the periphery of a parking lot. The Salvation Army bin was there, too. So was an employee of the mystery store, who was pushing a caravan of shopping carts across the foreground of the shot.

I decided to search for Salvation Army donation locations. No luck. The website only listed donation centers.

I did a Google search for “boulder erratic mystic, ct,” and found an article on the local Patch.com website about the National Geographic feature. Another photo of the rock. The caption said it could be found at the Big Y. I found the Big Y on a map of Mystic.

The following afternoon, Valeria and I took a detour from the traditional tourist destinations to visit the boulder.

It was truly gigantic. The National Geographic article had called it a leaverite, as in “leav 'er right there,” a nickname given for boulders deemed by construction workers as too cumbersome to bother moving. Indeed, a gap had been left in the chain-link fence surrounding the property to accommodate the erratic.

It was perhaps the most rewarding moment of the trip. Tourist destinations like Olde Mistick Village and Mystic Seaport capitalize on our desire to connect with the past that has shaped our present. Yet contained within this random rock largely ignored by passersby was a deeper history than any of the tourists who flock to Mystic ever get to see.

Every stone has a story. You just have to know where to look.

Me standing in front of the erratic.
Photograph by Valeria Garrido-Bisceglia.

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